How do I stop my dog chasing?

4 October 2009 123 Comments
How do I stop my dog chasing?

Many dogs are confined to a lead, re-homed, or worse, because their owners can’t stop them chasing.  It’s not their owners’ fault, they’ve spent hours out in the foulest weather shouting, yelling, pleading, cajoling and worrying. The better dog trainers tell them, “It’s a recall problem. More obedience exercises!” and that might help for a while, but the problem’s deeper than that.

In order to find the answer though, we need to ask a different question. It’s not, “How do I stop my dog chasing…”, or even, “Why does my dog chase…?” but rather, “What does my dog get out of chasing?”

Stop! How To Control Predatory Chasing In DogsUpdate:
As a result of the very successful APBC predatory chase seminars and the frequent requests for more information on the subject, I’ve expanded this article into a full book, “Stop!” How to control predatory chasing in dogs.

Find Out More

Like any good detective, you always have to look for the motivation. There are a number of reasons a dog can seem to chase, including things as diverse as fear, territorial behaviour and social interactions.

Because these motivations are all different, the solutions need to be tailored to suit each one, but true chasing is predatory behaviour and we need to identify it as such before we can address the problem. Check the list. If you can tick any two plus the last one, it is almost certain that your dog is predatory chasing.

Predatory Chase

  • It will often be exhibited towards more than one target (cars, ankles, rabbits, cats, sheep, joggers, bicycles?).
  • Dogs will actively seek out opportunities by going out of their way to find it.
  • They will become excited at the sight, scent and sound of their prey items, perhaps even making small ‘yipping’ noises.
  • Chasing may be preceded by stalking or searching.
  • It can happen anywhere.
  • It is stimulated by movement.
  • They look like they are enjoying it – not anxious, scared or worried


What Do Dogs Get Out Of It?

The answer lies in internal reinforcement. Dogs inherit instinctive behaviour that is too complex to be learned by every generation. You don’t have to teach a dog how to dig, he doesn’t learn to lift his leg to pee, they are instinctive actions, called “motor patterns” by ethologists.

Chasing behaviour is part of the inherited predatory hunting sequence. The sequence is genetically “hard wired” and prepares wild canines to catch prey in order to survive, for example, by searching for or stalking it.

“External reinforcement” is the way we usually train dogs: we give them a biscuit or a pat when they do the right thing.

“Internal reinforcement” is when the brain gives the body a feeling of pleasure. It is similar to the buzz we feel when we score a goal, win a race or achieve that top exam result.

Each part of the inherited hunting sequence is internally reinforcing. Dogs don’t need a biscuit as a reward for performing it; they do it out of sheer pleasure. In brain chemistry terms they get a buzz of dopamine every time they perform an inherited motor pattern. This is the same reward system abused by people taking Cocaine or Ecstasy, so you can imagine the addictive possibilities!

In original canine terms, the wild animal inherits exactly the right amount of each part of the sequence to lead it into the next. Because domestic dogs have been selected to exhibit exaggerated parts of the sequence and omit others, the whole predatory hunting sequence is rarely in balance in modern breeds. Variation appears both between and within breeds. Spaniels benefit from a huge internal reward from searching, but little or none from stalking. Pointers get huge internal reward from stalking, but not from a killing-bite, because of hundreds of generations of selective breeding. Individuals within each breed will inherit more or less of each part than others. This is the variability that makes some spaniels better at searching than others, or some pointers hard-mouthed.

“Chase” is a motor pattern, or behaviour, that is inherited. Dogs that chase are being internally reinforced just by doing it. They don’t need to be externally reinforced with a biscuit or a kind word, because the behaviour is rewarding in itself.

Why they won’t stop

Put simply, they enjoy it. Hugely. They enjoy the “high” they get from endorphins buzzing around their body to such an extent that they close down other senses to concentrate upon it. All focus is on the target as the source of pleasure. This is the first reason that owners cannot recall their dogs when they are in full flight. Their dogs simply don’t hear them.

Dogs with a high inherited drive not only derive great pleasure from chasing, they also need to perform it. They are driven to perform the behaviour to receive the boost to their feelings that it provides. They are constantly looking for outlets for it.

A dog with chase drive towards the top end of the scale is not easy to control because it is very difficult to counter internally reinforcing behaviour with external reinforcement. A dog will not stop chasing for the promise of a biscuit simply because a biscuit is not as valuable as the internal dopamine boost from the chase behaviour. In fact, nothing is more valuable than the thrill of the chase. Neither can you punish them into stopping for good.

Dogs with lower chase drives will comply for a while, but if they are not given the opportunity to express the chase behaviour in some way, the drive to chase will eventually outweigh the value of the biscuit or the pain of the punishment. The second reason owners cannot control dogs in full flight is that there is nothing the dog wants more than what it is doing now.

Understanding why dogs chase is crucial to controlling them; knowing that they take massive brain-chemical induced enjoyment from it; that they aren’t deliberately disobeying us, but obeying a stronger internal urge; that they can’t actually help it; that they’re fulfilling a hunger inside them, because they were bred like that.

Once we see chasing from the dog’s point of view it becomes easier to understand how to control them, because training a dog not to chase is not like training one to sit. The desire to sit for a reward is more or less the same for every dog, but each dog’s urge to chase can be negligible, immense, or anywhere in between.


If your dog is of a breed that was originally bred to chase it’s a safe bet they have the genetic hard wiring in their brain that makes it so enjoyable, but it’s also possible to ‘accidentally’ inherit a strong chase tendency in exactly the same way some pups inherit too long or short legs for their breed.

Dogs of this type seek out opportunities to chase because of the enjoyment they receive from it but unfortunately, if we leave them to it, they often direct it towards what we consider to be the wrong target. Children, rabbits, cats, cars, joggers, livestock, aeroplanes, deer, cyclists… remember, they are actively looking for opportunities to chase because it is so nice to perform. They often have a primary target, the one they use the most, and then a hierarchy of others.

The First Step

You can’t deal with a long standing chase problem in isolation. Because we are working within the parameters of internal reinforcement and a need to perform the behaviour, we are interfering with the balance of the dog’s emotions. Dogs have a limited number of ways of improving their emotions and if we temporarily deny them an opportunity their emotional balance may plummet, leaving them stressed and anxious.

The first step therefore is to scan your dog’s environment for anxiety; take out as many challenges as possible and introduce as many emotional improvers as you can. Challenges will include any fears that your dog has, for example noise phobias, separation issues and social concerns. Emotional improvers will include things like chew toys, a dog walker, or Dog Appeasing Pheromone, where appropriate. Reward based obedience training invariably improves relationships and the opportunities for positive interactions.

ImageIt seems strange that to stop your dog from chasing things you first need to address something that appears as unrelated as a fear of fireworks, but think about it for a moment.  The fear of fireworks makes a dog miserable, and the anticipation of that fear causes deep anxiety. Chasing is a way for the dog to cast off those anxieties and enjoy huge pleasure, improving their emotional bank balance. If we remove the challenges, the need to dispel the anxiety through chasing reduces accordingly. If we can’t totally remove the challenges, and sometimes that just isn’t possible, adding other things that improve the emotional balance will go some way towards reducing the need to chase.

Conducting an environmental scan for anxiety is not a simple matter and beyond the scope of most dog trainers. If you are not sure how you can help your dog in this way, you may benefit from contacting a qualified behaviour counsellor.

Control the Opportunities

Having established a reduction in background anxiety levels, we can start to look at how to control the actual chasing behaviour, for which there is now less need.

The problem arises because we have no control over the behaviour. To control chasing, we need to control the dog’s primary target. But we can’t control cats and rabbits, can we? No, so if we want to control chasing, we change the primary target to one we can control.

Initially we have to prevent the dog from continuing to reinforce the unwanted behaviour. Many owners make the mistake of trying to train their dog when it is actually chasing. Forget it. You can’t. The competition for the reward is too great.

What is your favourite exhilarating activity? Hang gliding, ballroom dancing, cuddling your grandchildren, alligator wrestling, strip scrabble, or extreme ironing? Imagine you are halfway through and I say, “Stop that now and I’ll give you a biscuit.”

Would you?

No, and neither will your dog.

Conversely, some trainers recommend that punishment through devices like electric shock collars will stop your dog from chasing, and they might, temporarily, but let’s examine what is happening. The dog chases as a way of improving their emotions. They need to chase something to maintain the positive aspects of their life. It fills an emotional hole for them. Punishment not only restricts a source of enjoyment, but also introduces pain and more anxiety into the dog’s life. One of the few ways in which the dog can enjoy themselves has become a source of pain. The overall effect will be to increase frustration and stress, and to make chasing even more important to the dog! Relate that to taking an electric shock in the throat every time you cuddle your grandchildren or glide across the ballroom floor.

If you want to stop your dog chasing rabbits, start by preventing them now. This is not optional, it is essential. Every time your dog chases a rabbit they stay in an addictive feedback loop. “I get a brain boost from chasing rabbits – I need the brain boost – I need to chase rabbits.” Do not take your dog anywhere near rabbits. Change your walk, take them swimming instead, at the very least keep them on a lead, but find a way to stop the continued addiction now. Imagine a little part of your dog’s brain that is labelled, “Got to chase” and another part that has a picture of a rabbit as a label. Every time your dog chases a rabbit, there is an extra connection between the two brain centres. The more connections, the more difficult it is to prevent.

Changing the Target

If the strength of the neural connections are represented by the red arrows in the pictures, we need to get to the position where…


Start to focus your dog on a toy, but not in competition with the problem. Change the chase context; play in a different place. Indoors is always good, or the garden if there are no rabbits. The new chase toy may depend upon your dog’s old preferred target. Many dogs will chase a ball, but inveterate chasers may be so focussed on their primary target that they ignore toys. Be inventive; make the new target sufficiently like the old one to stimulate your dog to chase, but sufficiently unlike it not to increase the brain connections with the old target when they catch it (if the dog still thinks they are catching a rabbit, the neural connections with rabbits are strengthened).

This is pure dog training, so use short bouts and lots of them, in a place with absolutely no other distractions; always stop before your dog gets bored and always end up keeping the toy yourself. Build up those neural connections between the “Got to chase” centre and the one with the picture of the new toy as a label. Play, play and more play.

Once you’ve got your dog’s attention, work on teaching a retrieve. Check here (link to Teaching Your Dog to Retrieve) if you have difficulty in teaching your dog to retrieve a toy.

Do not allow access to your dog’s favourite toy at any other time. Keep it special and always retain it when the game finishes. Your dog will be quite keen to play with the new toy so long as there are no rabbits about.

Keep practising in a place with no distractions until your dog is desperate to play the game. Because you are continuing to prevent other chasing your dog’s chase drive will be high, but focussed on the new game.

Predictive Command – The Best Recall Ever

Now introduce your recall command. Call, “toy!” in a bright and breezy voice every time you throw the toy for your dog. Pretty soon your dog will associate the word with the unconditional arrival of the toy. Start to use it when your dog is not expecting it. Call, “toy!” and as soon as your dog looks, throw it behind you. The word becomes predictive that there is a game on offer.

This is the time to take your training up a notch, for the best recall ever. Always work in a place with no distractions when you are training something new. Take two identical favourite toys and ask your dog sit/stay while you throw the first one as far as you can without using “toy!” command. If your dog won’t sit/stay, keep them on a lead or hold their collar. Wait for a count of five, then give a “fetch” command and release them. Immediately call, “toy!” and throw the second toy past their nose. As the first toy is dead and the second still moving, they will choose the live toy to chase. Go pick up the ‘dead’ one, then ask for the ‘live’ one back and repeat.

In this clip I’ve progressed a little to rewarding “looking at me” with the throw of the second football. I’m also using Belle’s name as the predictive command but your dog will probably respond better to a brand new one like, “Toy”…

If your dog doesn’t stop for the ‘live’ toy but pursues the ‘dead’ one, substitute the first thing you throw for something less valuable, to make it less attractive. Don’t worry if they go searching for the ‘dead’ one after they’ve picked up the ‘live’ one, you have achieved your goal by focussing on them on the second toy.

After three or four throws, your dog will not set off after the first one, but wait for you to call, “toy”. Don’t. Send them for the first one. Start again. This time wait until your dog is a third of the way to the first one before calling “toy” and throwing the second.

Next time call, “toy” but don’t throw the second one immediately. Wave it above your head for your dog to see and when they start to come back, reward with the throw.

Occasionally, your dog won’t chase the first toy, waiting for the second. Don’t reward that with the second toy, but send them on, going with them to find and play with the first one if necessary. You control the game; don’t be manipulated by your dog.

Leave it later and later to call your dog back and then start to reduce the time the first toy is ‘dead’ before sending them. Your final aim is to throw the first toy, immediately send your dog, wait until they are almost there, call, “toy!” and wait until they come all the way back to you, before playing with the second one. It’ll take a little time to achieve, but that’s what I call a recall!

In this clip I’m leaving it very late to stop Belle, but rewarding immediately.

Slowly introduce non-competitive distractions, for example for rabbit chasers, play the game whilst other dogs are about, or where children are playing football nearby. You are not yet ready to compete with the old problem. If you have difficulty finding a good place or if you just need a little more confidence, you could tie your dog to something sturdy with a long line before playing the game. When you feel ready to progress, untie the line and let it drag, making sure there are no loops in it to get caught. Your dog will feel slightly inhibited by the pull of the line and you will have more control. Shorten it by degrees until there is none of it left at all.

Total Control

Eventually the neural connections between “chase” and “toy” will outweigh those between “chase” and “rabbit”. Your dog will come to prefer the toy to chasing rabbits. The time will vary with each dog and how much previous reinforcement they received, but persistence will pay off.

When your dog spins round and looks eagerly for the game every time you call “toy”, you can test how well you are doing by taking them to a place where there are rabbits, but in the distance. Keep your dog on a long line and when they look in the direction of a rabbit, before they start to run, call, “toy” and play the game in the opposite direction. Do not at this stage wait until your dog is in full flight; remember they close down senses they don’t need, like hearing, when they are chasing!

If they play with you, inch closer to the rabbits next time. If they don’t, back to the garden and reinforce the new toy some more.


Even if your dog responds by ignoring rabbits completely, which they all will eventually, you can never give this up. If you don’t satisfy your dog’s chase needs, they will revert to finding their own targets again. But now you have the ultimate reward! Your dog wants the toy more than anything else on earth and can be asked to perform any behaviour to earn it. Recalls, sits, downs, eye contact, it is the ultimate training tool!

Not only do you have full control over your dog’s chase behaviour, you also have the rapt attention of your dog any time you want it.



  • Judy said:

    I really enjoyed this article thank you – it has given me a clearer understanding of my dog’s behaviour. I have a 4 year old rescue street dog from Spain – sort of spaniel type cross. I have had him for 2 years. He is a gentle, loving dog however he is excitable and I have to be very careful where I take him because his desire to hunt is so strong. On a walk he invariably disappears for around 20 minutes, ignoring me completely – even running past me a few feet away, ignoring me as I wave an open pouch of cat food at him. There are nesting birds (pheasants and skylarks) where I often walk and he is currently obsessed with trying to locate and flush them out. He disappears into woodland or long grass and I have no idea where he is until he decides to come back to me, all happy and fulfilled. I am keen to try the toy technique. At the moment he knows when it is playtime with my collie and (if it suits him) he runs in, grabs her ball and runs off with it, dumping it some distance away in favour of rushing off into the woods. Perhaps the fact that he wants to ball initially is a good sign.

  • Jessica said:

    I have 2 y/o Sheepdog, of course, bred to herd. We rescued her 3 months ago. We live in a rural area with many deer, armadillos, etc. Our property is not fenced. She has bolted out the door several times in pursuit of deer. I can’t control the deer population, it is what it is here. She does love her toys so I will work on this. My concern, when she is in pursuit, she is fast and hears nothing I have to say. The other problem I have is her barking. She gets walks 3-4 times a day and whenever she sees deer she barks uncontrollably. I tried the rocks in a can, creating a noise and that worked for about 3 weeks then she became immune to that. Will a dog whistle help? I am desperate! Thank you!

  • David Ryan (author) said:

    Hi Jessica,
    You have a square peg that you are trying to smash into a round hole. Not sure what she’s done for the first 21 months of her life, but guessing it wasn’t optimum upbringing. No fenced area and walked on lead is also far from ideal. Many deer that you cannot avoid makes it worse. The rocks in a can is a weak punisher that stopped her behaviour through fear, but her desire to chase the deer means more to her than the fear does, so she’s worked through it. The punishment probably also made you less attractive to her, which is another negative.
    Barking at the deer is frustration. This can turn to anger and aggression in some cases if you keep repeating it (but if you are lucky it may not).
    A whistle will not work.
    It is difficult for me to emphasise just how wrong your environment is for this dog.
    If I HAD to keep her using your environment (and my preference would be to re-home her to a more appropriate one, because it is not benefiting either of you) I would forget about walking her and spend the time with her tied-out on a long line so she can’t run off, whilst playing retrieve games with her. Replace the walks with games-time, and make sure the games focus on you. Forget all punishment and build a good relationship (3 months is a bit early to have achieved that yet) and practice your obedience training recall so she comes back because she wants to.
    After that you need a protracted programme of introducing the stimulus (deer) at a low level whilst keeping her focus on you (toy-reward) and gradually increasing the salience of the deer-stimulus. Working your way through the book will help (DON’T miss any bits out, especially the early parts) but it is going to be a long concerted effort for you.
    Good luck,

  • Julia said:

    So interesting to hear that the ears are gone once the dog is chasing… it all starts to make sense! Thank you, will be thinking along these lines now.


  • Lori said:

    Really encouraged by this. Our 20 month old working cocker has recently occasionally taken to chasing livestock, hares and birds. We used to take a ball or stick on walks but he gets really obsessed with them and it spoiled the walk so we started encouraging him to go off and use his nose! Now see that this was a big mistake. We have stopped taking him on certain walks, in favour of the beach for example, but will definitely re-introduce the ball under the rules suggested. Thanks for the advice, I am confident that this will help.

  • David Ryan (author) said:

    Don’t forget the ball reward should be conditional upon appropriate behaviour. Unconditional ball will encourage obsession, but using it to reward relaxed behaviour, or returning to you will be more helpful.

  • Sam Holdstock said:

    Thank you so much, I have just bought the book on line and can’t wait for it to arrive.
    We have just rescued a 12 month old lurcher whose focus is on birds he seems to listen in regard to other slower moving prey!!!
    I feel he needs to be able to satisfy that out and out running burst and I have been letting him off lead when I can see that it is totally safe to do so (no humans, horses or other wildlife we live in the New Forest UK with wildlife all around) he sprints off and may chase birds but once satisfied seems to have more focus on me and the toy.
    Just concerned in allowing this running I’m reinforcing this buzz???

  • David Ryan (author) said:

    Hi Sam,
    So long as he prefers chasing birds to interacting with you and your toy, you will not have full control of him. However, your relationship is new and developing, so you stand a good chance of replacing his desire for birds with a desire for your toy.
    Good luck,

  • T said:

    Hi David.

    What would you say about a track racing whippet? One you want to take to races, or lure chasing races, one you actually train to do this well and compete? There is a constant argument about whether you can train a hunting dog not to chase pray when not wanted, and continue to use them on hunting or races. People actually say to me that I can train my whippet not to chase rabbits and still train him to race tracks and be good at it. I don’t believe that is possible. I have my suspicions on whether it is possible to train a race whippet or greyhound to come back from pray chasing in the middle of the chase at all… Maybe that might be somewhat possible with this guideline of yours, but what about when you actually want the dog to chase “pray” in competitions? German Shepherd people tell me that it’s all about control, but I think that’s a load of…


  • David Ryan (author) said:

    I would have thought that this was more an issue of control of the environment rather than control of the target. Agreed it is an issue of control in a GSD and could be achieved by training control in a whippet, but GSDs are inherently more attentive than whippets and therefore easier to train (of course working with generalisations here). It COULD be done in a whippet but it would take more time/effort and personally I think there is a risk that you would compromise 100% effort on the track.
    My preference would be to encourage the whippet to chase the lure in training and on the track and to avoid areas where there is prey that might tempt the dog. That way there is no confusion in the dog’s mind and you retain 100% commitment to the race. Because the dog is getting plenty of chasing, it is doing what it was bred to do and there is no risk of compromising welfare by confining it to a lead all the time. Everyone’s a winner :)

  • Lauraine Jefferies said:

    Thank you for throwing me a lifeline. We have 2 rescue dogs the youngest of which has introduced the previously well behaved older one to the fun of chasing almost anything that moves and I have been running out of places where I can let them off the lead. Have now ordered the book and will redouble my efforts to find toys that interest them. Just one query, with none prey targets such as joggers and cyclists, the behaviour is more that of seeing off rather than actual chasing so does the same techniques apply?

  • David Ryan (author) said:

    Hi Lauraine,
    “Seeing off” (chasing away rather than chasing for enjoyment)suggests a fearful component. Whilst the same principles can be used to address each individual event, any underlying fear will have to be dealt with to prevent “seeing off” recurring. This means desensitising and counter conditioning to the feared stimuli in addition to controlling the predatory aspects.
    Hope this helps.

  • Jo said:

    I am grateful to have found this information. We acquired a 3 month old Patterdale terrier 2 years ago. Prior to that we had a Patterdale X, who lived to around 15 years. We thought that was enough experience of this breed. How wrong and naïve we were and what a difference in their mind-sets. The first dog would chase cats and sheep if left alone, but I was able to snap her out of it by calling her or keeping her in check by voice command. Our latest addition to the family, Patty, has obviously been bred to be completely wired up to chasing and killing. I cannot let her off the lead at all as she will home in immediately on any small furry thing that moves. When we first had her, she attacked our 17 year old border terrier and would have shaken him to death had I not been there to rescue him (yet she was only a puppy). I found that pet corrector spray enabled me to stop her targeting him. She has bitten through chain link fence, climbed trees, squashed through the tiniest of holes in fencing in order to get to neighbour’s chickens and cats. She did manage to get hold of and kill a chicken – naturally, this caused a lot of bad feeling. We appeared to be irresponsible – if only they could have known what lengths we had gone to, to stop her escaping.

    We look after a walled garden where we let her run, she does dig for mice (along with another terrier we have) but frequently escapes somehow. Each time, it causes us great stress and we fear she will find her way to nearby chickens (or even sheep). Luckily for us, she has remained in a hedge trying to unearth rabbits and comes back to her point of escape when she has tired (or killed).

    Our endeavours to find out where she escapes have mostly been unsuccessful, when we block one hole, she finds another way. After her escaping just yesterday, myself and my husband were seriously on the point of rehoming her to someone who can cope with or utilise her chasing. Each time, however, I am so glad to see her return and have grown to love the dog and cannot bring myself to give her away.

    Then I read your article this morning. You have given me fresh hope.
    I will try your suggested techniques for training (and obtain a copy of the book). I can see it’s not going to be easy and may take some time but I think Patty is worth it. Thank you so much for sharing your expertise.

  • Kate said:

    Thankyou for sharing these useful tips. I have ordered the book and will be reading it from cover to cover this weekend. I have a 3.5 year old working cocker spaniel who loves to chase birds (not food motivated), she will run after a ball if you throw it (and there’s nothing more interesting to chase/sniff), but its 50/50 whether she picks it up or not, or runs over the top of it after something else, and usually drops it half way back if she does pick it up! I will be following the instructions for getting her interested in toys/balls.
    My other 3.5yr old WCS is food motivated and does not chase (or fetch the ball), she just trots along next to me. Is it ok to still take her along on walks when training the chaser? there’s not enough hours in the day to walk them both separately all the time

  • David Ryan (author) said:

    Hi Kate,
    It is always more difficult to try to control two dogs together, but not impossible. If I was trying to train a chaser, I wouldn’t choose to have another dog along, however well behaved, as I would inevitably have to divert some attention from time to time. I would want 100% of my attention to go on the chaser, but I can appreciate that you may have to compromise.

  • Ben said:

    Hi David,
    Thank you for your fantastic book. It is the first thing I have read on predatory chasing that has completely made sense with a realistic solution. I have been working my way through your advise and playing the two ball game using 2 tennis balls, 1 that is more attractive than the other. My only problem is that at this time of year I am forced to take my collie cross for a walk in the dark in the mornings. I have a glow in the dark ball that I throw to give her extra exercise. Should I be calling “toy” when playing with this ball or should that be saved only for the tennis ball? I have 2 of the glow in the dark balls, can I play the game with two identical balls?

    Thanks again for your help


  • David Ryan (author) said:

    Hi Ben, thanks for the feedback – I’m glad it is working for you. The key to using the two balls is in their value. Provided they have high value for your dog, you can use them to play the game – and it seems that they do, so you should :)

  • Patricia Barkworth said:

    My 11 month old male Cavalier X lhasa Apso is afraid of other dogs although he tolerates the ones we walk with, and quite timid with most people. He chases cats, birds, squirrels,cyclists,joggers,people with carrier bags, and sometimes just random people. I am going to try your method, but am wondering if the timidity and the chase instinct are tied up in some way and would value your opinion.

  • David Ryan (author) said:

    Hi Patricia, Dogs that are timid (lacking in confidence) are easily subject to distress (negative emotions such as fear and anxiety). This causes a negative emotional balance. None of us can remain in negative emotional balance all the time – it would cause chronic distress, which can be harmful to health. Therefore such dogs seek out things that give them an emotional boost to counter that imbalance and, depending upon their inherited tendencies, chasing can be such an occupation.
    The book goes into it in greater depth, but the first stage in controlling chasing dogs is to redress any imbalance in their emotional state, and simply removing some of the stressors can be sufficient in some dogs to do that – thus reducing their need to chase things. Finding ways for your dog to cope with his fears and anxieties could significantly reduce his need to chase because he would be in a better general emotional state.
    Hope this helps to answer your thoughts.

  • Patricia Barkworth said:

    Hi David
    I have ordered the book and also the “What your dog wishes you knew” (or something like that) Will there be some advice about finding out what the stressors are. He was only 6 weeks when I got him, I took him then because I thought the people I got him from were not really responsible dog owners although I realise that’s not ideal.

  • David Ryan (author) said:

    Good morning Patricia,
    There are some pointers in both Stop! and Dog Secrets, but it is difficult to be specific as each dog is an individual. You can determine what stresses your dog by observing him – you’ve already identified that it can be interacting with some unfamiliar people and dogs. You will find ways of helping him cope with that in the books too. However, if you are having difficulty, you will benefit from professional help.
    I am not currently seeing private clients, and dog behaviour problems are just too complicated to consult by email, but you can find your nearest qualified behaviour counsellor at and trainers/behaviourists at


  • Alastair said:

    Hi David
    I’ve been looking at your website and the “Stop!” book for my 2 year old “Sprocker” (Mum was a Springer, Dad was a working Cocker)Spaniel. He’s pretty good, BUT…. we live in Auchterarder, Scotland in the country, all his walks are in fields, on tracks and full of pheasants, deer and sheep. He’s pretty good on the recall to a whistle but as soon as he gets a scent or sight of movement he’s off. He does come back but only after the chase. I want to continue walking him in the country, go hill-walking with him but am really concerned about the livestock chasing. The big issue for me is if we come across free range sheep on the hill and he is not beside me, how can I control that? Will your book help me?
    Cheers, Alastair

  • David Ryan (author) said:

    Hi Alastair,
    Yes the book can help with the issue you outline, but it isn’t a quick fix (there isn’t one) and you will need to put time and effort into training. You are basically asking for the best recall there is, which is achievable if you put the work in. Having said that, much of the training can be done every day on your walks, and is fun for you and your dog, so it shouldn’t be too onerous.
    Good luck with it,

  • Linzi said:

    I have a rescue lurcher (staff/greyhound), i got her when she was roughly a year old although she was a stray so her exact age wasnt known. I live in the west country surrounded by moors and woods and at first she was very well behaved and stayed with me but it wasnt long until instinct kicked in and she was off chasing anything that moved!! It was frustrating me almost to tears that she could be with me one minute behaving like an angel and the next she’d shoot off at great speed without even a backward glance and pay no attention to anything i screamed or shouted at her. Having read this artical i now can understand that her chase drive is so strong that she literally doesnt hear me its not that shes choosing to not listen!! Im moving to a house with a decent sized garden soon so will start using your method and see if i can change her way of thinking slightly to make her time with me on our walk more enjoyable!!
    Shes is a beautiful dog with a lovely caring nature who is an angel in the house so im hoping i can correct this behaviour and make us both happier beings:)

  • Jessica said:

    After an incident this morning where my husband was walking our 2 year old Australian shepherd mix down our long driveway to go the bathroom he ran off chasing a deer and our neighbor showed up threatening to shoot him, and he turned up after being gone for over 30 minutes, we realized we had a serious problem that needed to be fixed… We live in middle of the Forrest on 40 acres with deer, turkeys etc. and he spends a lot of time at my parents farm with chickens, cows, etc. which he is fascinated with (especially chickens- although he manages to control himself for the most part- he hasn’t killed any of them) He doesn’t run off constantly- it seems to be every 3 weeks lately though…

    I think this article was eye opening and I am hoping this type of training will work well- I also ordered your book today “Stop!” to learn more…

    He seems to run off chasing things when he is with my husband more so than me.. can we both work with him or does it have to be just one person that does all the training- would it be confusing for him if both of us worked with him?

  • David Ryan (author) said:

    Hi Jessica,

    I would recommend that you both work with him. Keep your training words and actions the same and he shouldn’t get confused. Good luck.


  • Victoria said:

    We have a rescue whippet lurcher that we have had for nearly 3 years now. We were told not to let her off the lead for 2 years by the rescue centre, but after only 2 days of her living with us she escaped from her collar whilst on the beach and ran off at speed. We expected that would be the last we’d see of her, but to our amazement she turned round and ran straight back to us. She did this twice more on the same walk (consequently we changed her collar!) it did make us realise that she wanted to be with us and we therefore gradually trained her to recall to a whistle, which has been really successful until the last 3 weeks. Over the summer she started hunting mice in the grass and would often catch at least 1, if not more, during each walk. Three weeks ago she progressed to rabbits and managed to kill one. She then would not recall to the whistle as she normally did. The obsession with rabbits continued, although would not always end In a kill.
    However, this morning on our usual walk, she chased a muntjac deer (which she often does), but this time caught it at a distance from me. She did not recall for a good 20 mins and when she did, was covered in blood. We feel we have lost control over a dog that was always keen to recall. She is not berated for returning to us and does always return,but now only when she chooses.
    She will play with balls in the garden, but will never return them – can we really keep her interest with a toy when the lure of a kill is on offer and do I need to stop walking her off the lead for some time?

  • David Ryan (author) said:

    Hi Victoria,
    Yes, there’s no reason to think that you can’t gain your dog’s attention with a toy, but you will need to work at it – a retrieve would be a good start. And, yes, preventing her from reinforcing the enjoyment of the chase and kill is also a good idea. Good luck, David

  • shirley said:

    Hi very interesting reading your methods and nice to know i am not alone having this problem with my otherwise perfect GS cross dog.He is fine with 98% of other dogs,but will chase any timid dog we come across usually springers or retrievers!It is very frustrating as i usually walk him in a large country park off the lead and can meet and pass as many as 25 dogs without a problem.Then for some reason he will chase and pick on one and understanderbly the owner isnt happy!He is extremely good with young puppies,who adore him and has lots of doggie mates he can play with.I dont want to keep him on a lead all the time because it can be weeks before we come across a dog he wants to chase,but i also dont want to be an irresponsible owner.He has no interest in toys or treats.Any further advice?

  • David Ryan (author) said:

    Hi Shirley,
    Not sure what is going on with your dog (bit difficult without seeing it), but it doesn’t sound predatory. Probably more social in cause from the description. However there’s no reason why the same principles won’t work to control it. You say, “he has no interest in toys or treats”. All dogs have interest in toys and food – your dog’s favourite toy is currently another dog, and he must eat or be hungry, so treats have a value for him. Finding the right toy or treat and building the value out of context is the key. Then train an alternative behaviour to the the unwanted one and reward that out of context before trying to use it in context. If you need help with it you can find professional trainers and behaviourists at

  • Sam said:

    We recently took on a 1yr old rescue Lurcher X English Bull Terrier. We let her off the lead from the start in fairly safe places we knew, but it was clear that she was going to be a far more difficult dog to train than any of our previous dogs. She’d had almost no previous training, had never been walked off lead, and has a really strong chase instinct. We live in a rural/ moorland area so after losing her (briefly and worryingly) a couple of times, I came across your post above and as a result read your book “Stop” and have been following the advice step by step – training her every day indoors with the two ball game and using a strong rubber ball on a rope as her “toy” (which she is now mad about) also working on basic training and in less than a month she’s improved dramatically (she’s not always keen to give back the toy but even that’s improving). Her recall still needs a lot more work, and I have to keep a very close eye on her when we’re out, but now if she sees something (eg.rabbit, squirrel, another dog) and is about to race off, she almost always comes back when I call “toy”. On the strength of this I have just read “Dog Secrets” also very helpful. It’s a long way to go before we can walk with her anywhere near sheep or deer, but I feel very encouraged by what we have achieved so far, thank you.

  • leigh said:

    Fascinating article. Hopefully it will help me and my partner reestablish control of his young springador who has just discovered the fun of chasing sheep! Will let you know how we get on!

  • Alex said:

    Hi David,

    Great article – is there no instance when you would ever use an electronic collar? My Lurcher is obsessed with chasing and is already “on borrowed time” as far as sheep are concerned. I’m terrified that her instinct will take over whenever I let her off (I am careful to do this away from sheep but she is likely to stop them before I do!) and she’ll end up being shot or harming something. Could the use of a shock-collar not be condoned a last defence against this by stopping her in her tracks?

  • David Ryan (author) said:

    Hi Alex,
    Training methods are always a personal choice.
    All I can say is that I’ve never felt the need to use a shock collar.

  • Beth said:

    I have a border Collie (buddy) he chass after bikes etc motorbike I though I had stopped him but he has started to do it again every time I go outside if he sees or hears a cyclist or motorbike he shoots off after that it this seriously worries me because he chases them along a fence and he has jumped the fence once before onto a dangerous main road I have no idea if this is predatory because when on walks he let’s them be its just on his territory he chases them any suggestions on how to stop him would be greatly appreciated!

  • David Ryan (author) said:

    Hi Beth,
    Yes it certainly sounds territorial rather than predatory if it only happens on his own patch.
    Behaviour problems are too complicated to resolve without seeing the dog, but you can find your nearest qualified behaviour counsellor at and trainers/behaviourists at

  • Josephine said:

    What an interesting article!

    My 4 yr old rescue Brittany [abandoned hunting dog] is SUCH a good, gentle boy, so eager to please, great with all his commands. We walk off lead in a massive woodland or on a huge beach, where his recall is great.

    BUT when he catches sight/smell of a game bird if I walk in the fields: then I have 0% control of him. I become an anxious spectator: he has no fear of running completely out of sight of me and will only reappear when he’s lost the scent. Hence, I walk in the woods. But we’re surrounded by fields…I dream of one day being able to let him off lead in the fields but right now I certainly can’t. )-:

    I will try your technique & see if I can make his toy pheasant more enticing…he’s never chased anything ‘dead’ before now, other than a rawhide bone on the odd occasion!! Maybe I should stuff the toy pheasant with some rawhide? (-;

    Any other suggestions of how to get a dog interested in ‘toys’? I’ve even thought about stuffing my pheasant with a remote control car!!! (-:

  • David Ryan (author) said:

    Hi Josephine,
    I LOVE the idea of stuffing a toy pheasant with a remote control car – with that kind of inventive thinking, you can’t help but succeed!

  • Bree said:

    Hi David,

    Thanks so much for this article. The behaviour you have described is exactly what we are seeing in our border collie x kelpie. She is probably about 1.5yrs old, we rescued her 2 months ago.

    We take her to the beach every morning and she is obsessed with chasing birds. We actually didn’t have any issues with this, because the birds are flying over the water and she is never going to catch them, so we thought “hey good exercise!”

    My question is can we allow this chasing behaviour but somehow stop her chasing everything else? In particular other dogs, cats etc.

    She is not interested in chasing toys / balls, but has recently started chasing other dogs when off the leash at the dog park. We are really confused as she didn’t do this when we first got her, so not sure if chasing birds in the morning is fuelling her to do this?

    She is completely fine with other dogs and can be left alone to play all day with my sister’s dog no issues, but at the park as soon as she sees another dog running (after it’s own ball or something) she will sprint after it – and actually growls when she gets there like she is rounding them up and then comes back to us almost proud of her work!

    We don’t know how to stop her, as by the time she comes back if we tell her off it would be like telling her off for coming back to us? We’ve also tried keeping her nearby – but off the leash – so when she looks as though she is about to bolt we can verbally stop her (before she loses her hearing on the chase as you mentioned!)

    We were also wondering if she has become really territorial, because we often walk her early in the morning so she has the whole beach / park to herself, so then in the afternoon she might be trying to tell all other animals to back off it’s “her area”??

    I will start working on getting her interested in toys the way you have described, so we can use this method at the park. BUT my question is do we need to stop her from chasing the birds at the beach, or even the flies in the backyard?


  • David Ryan (author) said:

    Hi Bree,
    It looks like you’ve got a few things going on here.
    Firstly, you’ve had her two months. There is often a honeymoon period after adoption where dogs inhibit their behaviour whilst they get used to a new environment. This could simply be her reverting to her previous behaviour.
    Secondly, yes, there could be an element of territoriality or even breed specific herding behaviour – growling suggests that she is communicating with the dogs she chases, which is not something you do with prey.
    Third, yes, she can learn that she is allowed to chase birds in some circumstances but nothing else. You need to go through a training process where you ask her to check in with you before she is allowed to chase the birds and then call her back occasionally before allowing her to go again.
    Fourth, controlling her behaviour with other dogs is a must. Simple obedience training (but lots of it) is the key, and toy training will help you with that because it will be a high value reward for her.
    Finally (for now at least) chasing flies in the backyard suggests she may not be able to relax very well. Learning to relax is important and something that doesn’t always come naturally to collies and kelpies, so you might want to look at helping her in that respect too.
    If you don’t know how to do any of these things I suggest you take advice from a qualified behaviourist and/or trainer. You don’t say where you are, but if you contact me directly, I may be able to suggest someone for you.
    Good luck,

  • Serena said:

    I have a ten month old Collie/lurcher who has just started chasing any small dog that we come across on walks.It is really difficult and I am worried that she will actually hurt one soon.
    I have done a lot of training with her from when I got her at 11 weeks. She is very good on recall on walks
    ( unless there’s a small dog/rabbit near) and she will sit and stay and come when I call.
    I have also done chase recall with her which was going fairly well, using a ball to take her off the chase and divert to the ball. She came in to season a month ago and we didn’t do it for three weeks as she was on a lead. I try not to let her chase rabbits and she is good at staying with me and gets rewarded when she keeps close to me. We have a very good relationship and she is a lovely dog. I have noticed lately that she thinks she is pack leader! ( jumping up at me from behind and being a little aggressive if I don’t always reward her when she walks near me) I have been reinforcing that I am pack leader. I wonder if this is also a cause of chasing small dogs?
    Any help from owners with similar problems would be great.

    Many thanks

  • David Ryan (author) said:

    Hi Serena,
    Most modern trainers have moved away from describing dog behaviour in terms of pack leadership. Perhaps you could have a look at this article to explain why
    In the case of your dog it is difficult to be certain without actually seeing the behaviour, but chasing small dogs isn’t necessarily predatory (and it certainly has nothing to do with her “pack leadership”). Quite often behaviour changes around puberty, when adult motor patterns supersede puppy ones, and your dog’s change appears to have coincided with her first season, so that is a distinct possibility. You probably need some help from a qualified behaviourist and/or trainer. You can find one local to you at at and

  • Chris Kelly said:

    Hi David,

    This sounds fine and your training with two balls is great news. I recently adopted an American Bulldog Cross (female aged 4) from the RSPCA. We had a lovely honeymoon period, but then the trouble started, she chases anything, from cats to cars and she is very strong. She has pulled out of my hands into the road to get to other dogs and now she has started chasing cars, pulling me over in the road today. I cannot take her out anymore, I am so disappointed as I love walking. She loves chasing balls but will not give me them back. I tried with two balls and that worked but then she lost one in the garden. I can’t see how I can stop her chasing cars by throwing balls, as when we are near cars, she is on a lead, so how could I divert her attention to the balls in that environment. I also have to be careful when there are other dogs around, although she is ok, she just wants to play, but will not come away when the playing is finished and I am afraid this will escalate to a fight. I give her treats when she behaves well and praise her but I am concerned that chasing cars is going to end up with one of us being killed.

    I am retired and live on a pension, so a behaviourist would be out of the question. Not sure about training, that may help.


    C Kelly

  • David Ryan (author) said:

    Hi Chris,
    Sorry to hear you are having difficulty. The first thing you need to do is readjust your relationship because it sounds like your dog is making decisions she shouldn’t be. My Guide & Control book can help with that. The two-ball training needs to be developed so that she is prepared to do what you ask for the opportunity to obtain the reward at any time – the same as other rewards. If you don’t think that you know how to do that, perhaps you could seek out a trainer that could help you. You can find trainers at

  • Olive Rostron said:

    Hi David. I have a 15 month Cavelier. She can be very affectionate and likes to snuggle for a cuddle, but at other times when we go to touch her she backs away and seems nervous although we have always been nice to her.Her other main problem is chasing seabirds. We live near the coast and she loves going to the beach where we throw her a ball which she is very good at retrieving, then suddenly she takes off chasing the seabirds scrambling over rocks and seaweed running at full stretch. If she hurt herself we would not be able to get to her. She is totally oblivious to us. Eventually when she is worn out, she comes back, but only because she has had enough. I play with her in the garden every day throwing a ball which she enjoys. She loves playing with plant pots too. Not sure why she is so nervous sometimes. Her redeeming feature is she likes other dogs but always stays with us. She is quite happy just walking with us on her lead but it is such a shame we cannot let her run loose on the beach. She was a nightmare today on the rocks. Any thoughts would be appreciated.

  • David Ryan (author) said:

    Hi Olive,
    Difficult to offer any specific advice without more detail, for which you would need someone to see you to collect all the necessary information (see for qualified behaviourists in your area). In the absence of specific advice I would go back to basic with everything: readjust your relationship, re-teach obedience, especially recall (starting with long line), and work on the chasing.
    Sorry not to be more help, but you really need to see someone.

  • Jordan said:

    Great article! But i am really having a hard time wih my puppy (beagle lab mix 7 months) we have been trying to get her to stop chasing my pet rabbits in my backyard. We have been trying to train her but as soon as we leave her alone she is chasing them. She doesn’t do it while we are there so much and when she does i call her and she comes so its not that her senses shut out when she chases. So how can i stop her from misbehaving and chasing when i leave for work?

  • David Ryan (author) said:

    Hi Jordan, the short answer is that you can’t control her if you are not there. She isn’t misbehaving, she’s doing what a seven month old lab/beagle has been bred to do – catch small furries. She’s following her instincts in the absence of guidance from a human. If you don’t want her to chase when you are not there, then remove her from the source of rabbits.
    Sorry not to be more help, but she’s a dog – doing exactly what she was bred to do.

  • Rebecca said:

    Thank you for this great insight. I realise I made a terrible mistake in allowing my collie springer puppy such freedom in the woods off the lead because he was so good at recall. I was allowing the chase reward to enable him to overcome every fear in being away from me and encourage his instinct and passion for it. He hit the 8/9 months and suddenly the recall ceased to be so effective. He always came back, but not immediately and would cover huge distances in no time. After a month, I found your method was proving to be really effective and thought I had cracked it, controlling his need to chase with a ball, until at the end of a long walk the ball just wasn’t enough and he took off with potentially awful consequences. I have him back on a long lead and feel like I am starting all over again. I know without seeing the dog, and every dog is different, it is difficult to comment, but is it possible to give any indication how long it might take. I would hate for this beautiful, lithe, clever dog to have to be on the lead all his life. (My last dog was the ‘same’ cross breed, trained the same, and I had no problem with recall, this ones chase instinct seems very extreme.)

  • David Ryan (author) said:

    Hi Rebecca,
    It’s not unusual for dogs to go through this kind of training glitch around adolescence. They are just learning about the world and their place within it. You’ve done right to take control with the long line again. If you can increase the value of the ball/toy with lots of play, and increase your own value through Guide & Control (see the book if you need to), you will be probably be back where you were in six months or so. Yes that might seem a while but in comparison to the rest of his life it is a small time and effort.
    Good luck,

  • Beverley Neville said:

    We have a 14mth old Rottie and after just 5 weeks was doing really well with his training. He’s good with other dogs, normally responds etc until he met a horse today and saw the horse long before we did which was quite a bit (100m=) away from us. To cut a long story short, he could have been killed (the horse pushed him away with his leg instead of kicking him thankfully) and although he wasn’t being aggressive with the horse he was exitable, and jumping around it, but the horse rider was ery nervous and trying to run away from him (she also had her own dog with her) which obviously didn’t help.

    How can we stop this once he has seen a horse (without keeping him on a leash all the time which we of course don’t want to do)?



  • David Ryan (author) said:

    Dear Beverley,
    This is too complicated and dangerous to consult through a web conversation. I’m not currently seeing private clients but you can find out how to improve your relationship with your dog in my booklet Guide & Control Your Pet Dog’s Behaviour, available at
    You can find out how to deal with predatory chasing (which this most probably is NOT) in my book “Stop!” How to Control Predatory Chasing in Dogs, available at
    Alternatively you can find your nearest qualified behaviour counsellor at and trainers/behaviourists at


  • Nicki Bate said:

    Your article was very interesting and went a long way to explain my 18 month old male cockapoo’s behaviour. He has a very friendly temperament and I have never seen him exhibit any form of aggression towards other dogs or people. We regularly walk off lead and socialise with other dogs. However – he is obsessed with seeking out and chasing foxes. We live in surburban London and there are hundreds of the damned things around. Just today I took him to s local park and in a split second he cut off playing with another dog to disappear into the bushes and escaped through a fence into a housing estate. Fortunately he came back on this occasion, but he had crossed roads in the meantime so it’s very concerning. This has happened several times and each time he follows fox trails. He will also chase deer given the chance so I have to be extra vigilant as he would not survive an encounter with a large stag! Any advice? Thank you! Nicki

  • David Ryan (author) said:

    Yes, Nicki,
    Buy the book! :)

  • Toni said:

    I spent a lot of time training my now eight month old cockapoo in the early days on basic commands and recall which she seemed to respond well to. However, I live in the Scottish borders on a large estate and until recently she has not been exposed to busy roads. Now it’s a real liability walking her alongside traffic as she lurches at every passing car and wants to chase them. I can’t see how any toy intervention is going to help here. Can I desensitise her by continually taking her along busy roads? Will she eventually give up this particularly chase and can it be classed as predatory?!

    Thanks, Toni

  • David Ryan (author) said:

    Hi Toni,
    The behaviour is extremely unlikely to be predatory in nature – much more likely to be fear based. “Chasing away” the cars as they pass works because they always go away. However I don’t like to diagnose without seeing it and it is too complicated to consult over the web, but you can find your nearest behaviour counsellor at or trainers/ behaviourists at

  • FIONA said:

    Hi there
    My Springer Spaniel is 21 months. Ever since we had him (8 weeks old) he has barked at and ‘gone for’ cars, bikes (any type) and runners. Even a lady with a pram! Anything moving quickly toward and then past us.
    He is ball obsessed. We walk through farmland and woodland where there are animals and pheasants and he’s really not bothered and recall is good. BUT as soon as we are up on the walking track – even after a bit of ball play – he will bark at any runner (cyclists or vehicle) coming past. He will confront them then try and nip their ankles. It’s horrendous for me. He is such a lamb in all other ways but I cannot control him AT ALL when he is doing this. I have consulted two behaviour specialists who wanted to fix the basics before trying to address this. I get that… & now after reading this article I understand finally what is going through my dog when this happens. He is terrible on a lead (pulling as very strong and I am only little) and I am trying to train him to walk to heel. (long story – I was ill up until November so have not trained him as I should have done.. .) He is a good boy off lead until this happens.So it was all going well until we saw the runners. Now I feel totally destroyed and that I am useless at training my dog. I could cry. I have been walking him where he won’t come across runners in narrow lanes. I have been in big open fields and have totally sidetracked him when I’ve seen anything coming (he also barks at horses) and that makes a happy walk and we play with the ball thrower & it’s a great outing. I live in a farmland / woodland environment. I just feel like I am losing the battle and it makes me sad. I love my dog but I just don’t know what to do – the lady I see said I needed to de-sensitise him and should take him to the park and just sit and watch the cyclists etc etc etc… is that the next step? Thanks FIONA ,

  • David Ryan (author) said:

    Dear Fiona,
    I don’t like to diagnose without seeing the behaviour, but it does appear that your dog is not engaging in predatory chasing, but rather chasing from fear. In that case your trainer is right about desensitising, but it is far more complicated than I can explain by web-posts, and requires more than just sitting and watching things in the park. I’m not seeing private clients at the moment, but you can find your nearest qualified behaviour counsellor at and trainers/behaviourists at

  • shirley carew said:

    A friend’s dog barks at and tries to chase cars, so I looked it up on the internet. Found many not very helpful articles, until I came across yours which is very interesting. I will suggest she buys STOP. thank you.

  • Danielle said:

    Hi I’ve just gotten a 1yr old lurcher today..previous owners had him as a working dog then decided that the didn’t want him anymore and started abusing him. He’s terrified of other dogs and men and women sadly. I also have a cat and they were introduced to each other for the first time this evening the dog had his leader on and was held by my partner on a very short leash. And it didn’t go very well he wanted to chase the cat and stuff what can I do to make the transition easier for the dog from working life to family pet life and also get him not to chase the cat and be nice to one another


  • David Ryan (author) said:

    Hi Danielle, This is way too complicated to be able to do remotely. You need specialist help. You can find your nearest qualified behaviour counsellor at and trainers/behaviourists at

  • Euna said:

    Hi there,

    This is a very interesting read and has given me some tips to try. I have a lovely 10 month old cocker spaniel and she has certainly found her nose in the last couple of months!! I have ordered your book to see if I can get a few more tips – I have a constant sense of worry that she is going to run off too far and get lost. As I’ve read previously, the training can seem to be going really well then, at about 9 months, it all goes out the window – which is exactly what happened for us!!

    She loves to chase birds and she is constantly looking for bushes and picking up scents. I’m just so worried she goes off too far and gets lost or hurt. I have started going to a gundog trainer so I’m hoping that helps – I know there’s no ‘quick fix’ but I’m dedicated and keen to try what he advises, although I wish someone had a magic wand to make it happen sooner!!

    Any other tips are gratefully received – I am usually a very laid back person but I now have this constant sense of worry about her running off.

    It’s tough being a parent!!!

  • David Ryan (author) said:

    Hi Euna,
    you seem to have a very sensible attitude – I’m sure the book will give you what you need to know.
    Good luck and enjoy your pup!

  • Jo said:

    Hi David,
    Thanks for the interesting reading and insight. I have 2 rescues: a 3y.o Lab/Staffy dog and an almost 10 month GSHPxGS bitch who we’ve had around 6 months. They get on famously and both love to run, but she particularly loves to chase him. Initially they would play chasey everywhere, but recently they’ve been running laps around a circular garden bed. This occurs despite how long or recently they’ve been walked and has resulted in a very dusty racetrack! I realise that this is play, but am a little concerned that they may injure themselves in their excitement and speed. I’m wondering if I should be attempting to deter the behaviour, or if I’m better off accepting it and putting tanbark down to minimise the mess before Winter?! Also if there is there any likelihood at all that they will grow out of this as they age? I hope my questions aren’t too off-topic – her chasing is instinct rather than predatory (I feel). Thanks very much for any insight you can provide…

  • David Ryan (author) said:

    Hi Jo,
    as you rightly say, this is play behaviour. So long as both dogs are enjoying it they should keep it within limits that don’t harm themselves. It is really up to you if you would like to disrupt them. If they are getting plenty of exercise otherwise they probably don’t need to do it, but it does seem like they enjoy it. You would need to make sure that they don’t start to chase other dogs they meet because that would worry some.
    It is unlikely that they will grow out of it totally, but it might decline as they age.

  • Tracy said:


    I believe she would bite given half a chance. She totally ignores out 18 to cat. My husband now doesn’t trust her but I have told him we need to understand why. Please let me know if this technique could work for us as I will not allow myself to fail her. Thank you :)

  • David Ryan (author) said:

    Hi Tracy,
    Many street dogs have a different outlook to most pets and when adopted rarely come with just a single issue to be addressed. It is unlikely that you can treat this one problem in isolation and will need the advice of a professional behaviour counsellor. You can find your nearest qualified behaviour counsellor at and trainers/behaviourists at

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